Elio Altare Barolo 2021

Elio Altare is the producer who reshaped Barolo around sustainable farming and low-intervention winemaking, and this red is made from Nebbiolo grown on Langhe vineyards of twenty to thirty years of age. Barolo's calcareous marl soils and the cool, foggy hills of the Langhe are the making of Nebbiolo, an early-budding, late-ripening grape that needs a long autumn to develop its perfume and resolve its considerable tannin. The combination of marl, altitude and a wide diurnal range gives the wine its pale colour, high acidity, firm structure and the aromatic complexity that defines the appellation. Barrel ageing softens Nebbiolo's grip through slow oxygen exchange while preserving the variety's character rather than overlaying it with oak. It shows a garnet-edged red, with a nose of red cherry and raspberry lifted by rose, dried herbs and the tar and leather that come with the grape. The palate is full and firm, the high acidity and fine, gripping tannins framing the red fruit and carrying it to a long, savoury, earthy finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanting well ahead. A classic with braised beef and game.