Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling GG Alte Reben 2020

Dr. Loosen farms some of the finest sites in the Mosel, and this Grosses Gewachs comes from old vines in the Urziger Wurzgarten, a steep amphitheatre of a slope near Urzig. The name means spice garden, a nod to the unusual red volcanic slate and sandstone here, which sets it apart from the grey slate common elsewhere in the valley and gives the wine its exotic, spiced character. The slope faces south and is dangerously steep, so every vine is worked by hand, and its old roots reach deep into the fractured rock. As a Grosses Gewachs this is a dry wine from a single top vineyard, fermented out to leave little sugar. Ageing on the fine lees adds body and a savoury depth to balance the mineral drive, while the cool climate keeps the acidity sharp. The colour is bright straw gold. The nose shows white peach, apricot and lime over a smoky, spiced slate character. The palate is dry and intense, taut and stony, the fruit carried by a firm line of acidity to a long mineral close. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.