Domane Serrig Kabinett 2020

Markus Molitor revived the Vogelsang estate on the hills of the Saar, in south-western Germany, and Domane Serrig Kabinett comes from those steep slopes. Riesling here grows on blue Devonian slate, a stone that warms quickly and holds heat, which matters in this cool northern climate where ripening is slow and the growing season long. That slow ripening on slate is what gives Saar Riesling its combination of low alcohol, intense fruit and driving acidity. At the Kabinett level the wine is picked at modest ripeness and left with a touch of natural sugar, so at 10.5 percent it reads as gently off-dry rather than sweet, the sugar balanced by the wine's sharp acidity. It is aged ten months on its lees and a further two years in bottle, which adds a subtle roundness and early complexity. It pours pale and bright. The nose is green apple, white peach and white flowers with a honeyed hint, and the palate is light and racy, with lemon, a fine thread of sweetness and a wet-slate, saline finish. Serve well chilled at 8 to 10 degrees.