Domaine Santa Duc Côtes-du-Rhône Les Quatre Terres 2023

Domaine Santa Duc is one of Gigondas's most respected estates, and Les Quatre Terres blends Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre from across the Southern Rhone appellation. The vines sit on a patchwork of soils, miocene safre, red limestone and alluvial clay, which the estate works biodynamically. The Mediterranean climate ripens Grenache to high sugar, hence the 14.5% alcohol, while cooler nights hold acidity and aromatic lift. Ageing for eighteen months in amphorae and used barrel is the defining choice here. The unglazed clay allows slow oxygen exchange without adding oak flavour, settling the tannins and keeping the fruit fresh, while the older wood rounds the structure rather than seasoning it. The result is a wine of red and black berry fruit framed by garrigue herbs, liquorice and black pepper from the Syrah, with the firmer grip of Mourvedre on the close. Grenache carries the warmth and the supple mid palate. Serve at 16 to 17C, and a short decant helps the younger vintage open. It suits grilled lamb, herb-crusted pork and ratatouille.