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$35
Domaine de Montbourgeau makes this Chardonnay in L’Etoile, a small Jura appellation named for its star-shaped fossils. Farmed organically and topped up through ageing to keep it fresh rather than oxidative, it shows white peach, dried apricot and a spicy, saline edge.
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Description
Domaine de Montbourgeau sits in L'Etoile, one of the smallest appellations in the Jura, where Nicole Deriaux has run the family estate since 1986. The name L'Etoile refers to the tiny star-shaped fossils scattered through the grey marl and limestone soils, and those cool, calcareous clays give the wine its firm acidity and mineral spine. This Chardonnay is made ouille, meaning the barrels are kept topped up during ageing so the wine develops under limited oxygen. That choice keeps the style fresh and fruit-driven rather than following the nutty, oxidative path the Jura is also known for. Time in barrel on the lees builds texture and a subtle spice, while malolactic fermentation softens the sharper edges of the acidity. The colour is bright gold. The nose leads with white peach and pear over dried apricot and a light savoury note, and the palate is concentrated, clear and elegant, closing long and saline. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a white Burgundy glass.
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