Domaine Ledogar La Mariole 2023

Domaine Ledogar is a biodynamic and natural estate in the Languedoc in southern France, and La Mariole is its expression of old vine Carignan, here named Carinena, bottled as Vin de France. Carignan was long dismissed as a bulk grape, but old, low yielding vines on the right sites give a fresh, peppery red with real character, and Ledogar farms organically and biodynamically with minimal intervention in the cellar. At 12.5 per cent the wine is picked for freshness rather than power, an unusual choice in the warm Languedoc that keeps it light and lifted. The schist and limestone soils and the dry, sunny climate, tempered by cooling sea and mountain air, give ripe but balanced fruit, while the surrounding garrigue scrubland leaves its mark in the wine's herbal character. Ageing runs twelve months in used French oak so the wood adds gentle oxygen and texture without fresh oak flavour, in keeping with the natural style. The colour is bright, light ruby. The nose shows crunchy red berries, cherry, black pepper, dried herbs and a touch of olive. The palate is light and fresh, with fine tannins and a savoury, mineral finish. Serve lightly cool at 14 degrees with charcuterie, roast pork or vegetable dishes.