Domaine Lafage Arqueta 2020

Domaine Lafage makes Arqueta in AOP Collioure, at the eastern end of the Pyrenees where the mountains meet the Mediterranean. Roussillon is best known for its naturally sweet wines, but the Lafage family, here for seven generations, has built a reputation for dry reds of real character. This one blends Grenache Noir and Grenache Gris grown on the steep schist terraces above the coast, where the poor, stony soils restrict yields and the hot Mediterranean sun, tempered by sea breezes and the tramontane wind, ripens the fruit fully to fifteen percent. The schist holds daytime heat and lends a savoury, mineral depth, while the old vines concentrate the flavour. The wine ages six months in barrel, enough to round the texture and add a coffee and spice frame without burying the fruit. It pours a deep, dark red. The nose is intense, with blackberry and currant, mocha, spice and a nutty edge from the wood. The palate is fresh despite the ripeness, the acidity balancing the weight, with smooth tannins and a long, savoury finish. Serve at sixteen to seventeen degrees. Good with grilled red meat and game.