Domaine la Barroche Châteauneuf-du-Pape Julien Barrot 2021

Domaine La Barroche has farmed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since the fifteenth century, and siblings Laetitia and Julien Barrot now run it, drawing on a treasured plot of century-old Grenache vines. This is the estate's signature cuvée, a traditional southern Rhône blend of Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse and other permitted varieties, organically farmed. Old vines give low yields and deeply concentrated fruit, and the appellation's heat-storing galets roulés ripen the grapes fully, accounting for the wine's 15 percent alcohol. Each variety adds its part: Grenache the ripe red and black fruit and warmth, Syrah colour and pepper, Mourvèdre structure and a gamey, savoury depth. The wine is raised in 600 litre demi-muid barrels, whose larger format and slow oxygen exchange round the tannins and bind the blend together without obvious oak. It is deep and complex, with ripe plum, red berries, garrigue herbs, liquorice, leather and smoke. The palate is full bodied and layered, the tannins fine, the finish long and savoury. It rewards bottle age. Decant ahead and serve at 17 to 18 degrees with roast and braised meats.