Domaine Jules Desjourneys Moulin à Vent Les Michelons 2015

Domaine Jules Desjourneys is the Beaujolais project of Fabien Duperray, a former wine merchant who since 2007 has made cru Beaujolais with a Burgundian eye for detail. Les Michelons comes from Moulin-a-Vent, the firmest and most structured of the Beaujolais crus, whose pink granite soils are streaked with manganese and give Gamay unusual depth and ageing potential. The cool granite subsoil and the slope hold freshness in the fruit. The 2015, from a warm vintage, spent eighteen months in demi-muids and stainless steel, a long maturation on a wine already built for the cellar. The colour is deep and bright. The nose is intense and expressive, with cassis, blackberry and a savoury mineral edge. The palate is broad and concentrated, with dark fruit, real structure and firm tannin for Gamay, on a long finish. This is cru Beaujolais at its most serious, closer to fine Burgundy than to the easy-drinking reputation of the region. Serve at 16 degrees. It goes well with roast pork, duck, chicken and mushroom dishes.