Domaine Georges Vernay Sainte-Agathe 2022

Domaine Georges Vernay sits at the northern end of the Rhone, an estate central to the rebirth of Condrieu and now run by Christine Vernay. Sainte-Agathe is its Syrah from steep granite hillsides on the right bank, bottled under the wider IGP Collines Rhodaniennes rather than a village appellation, which makes it the estate's fresher, more approachable red. Granite soils drain fast and reflect heat, ripening Syrah while the cooler northern climate keeps acidity high and the fruit fragrant rather than jammy. The estate farms organically and harvests these sheer slopes by hand. The wine is aged in oak, which rounds the tannins and adds gentle spice while preserving the variety's pepper and violet lift, often helped by a share of whole-bunch fermentation. The colour is bright ruby. The nose leads with raspberry and blackberry, violet, black pepper and a smoky, mineral note. The palate is medium bodied and fresh, the tannins fine, the acidity bright and the finish savoury and clean. Serve at 15 to 17 degrees, with a short decant or none. It suits grilled meats, pork, duck and mushroom dishes.