Domaine Georges Vernay Côtie-Rôtie Maison Rouge 2020

Domaine Georges Vernay is a northern Rhone estate best known for reviving the small Condrieu appellation, now led by Christine Vernay across her family vineyards. Maison Rouge is its Cote-Rotie, made from Syrah on the appellation's famously steep terraces. The granite and schist soils here drain hard and warm quickly, and the slopes face south, ripening Syrah fully on hillsides too sheer for machines, so all the work is done by hand. The estate farms organically. After fermentation the wine is aged in oak, which softens the tannins and lends a smoky, spicy frame while letting the variety's perfume come through; a portion of whole-bunch fruit is typical of the appellation and adds floral and peppery lift. The colour is deep ruby with a purple cast. The nose is layered, with blackberry and black cherry, violet, cracked black pepper, smoke and cured meat. The palate is full bodied and intense, the tannins firm and fine, the acidity keeping it fresh through a long, savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted an hour ahead. It is built for roast and grilled red meat, game and herbed lamb.