Domaine Fumey Chatelain Brouillé-Ménage 2022

Domaine Fumey Chatelain makes Brouillé-Ménage in AOC Arbois, in the Jura of eastern France, from Poulsard, the pale native grape also spelled Ploussard that gives the region its distinctive light reds. Poulsard has thin skins and little colour, so the wine reads almost translucent and leans on aroma and freshness rather than tannin or weight. The vines grow on the marl and limestone soils typical of the Jura, farmed sustainably, where the cool continental climate and the long autumn ripen the fruit slowly and preserve acidity. The wine spends ten months split between stainless steel, which keeps the red fruit bright and primary, and barrel, which rounds the texture through gentle oxygen exchange. It pours a pale, light ruby. The nose is delicate and perfumed, with fresh strawberry and red currant, cherry, a note of straw and a savoury earthiness underneath, lifted by dried herbs and a touch of rose. The palate is light and fresh, low in tannin, the acidity carrying the wine to a clean, savoury finish. Serve cool at thirteen to fourteen degrees. Good with roast chicken, charcuterie or salmon.