Domaine de Trevallon Alpilles Rouge 2013

Domaine de Trevallon sits in the Alpilles of Provence, the estate Eloi Durrbach built into a regional benchmark after leaving architecture. His blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah exceeded what the Baux-de-Provence appellation permitted, so the wine is bottled as IGP Alpilles, but its reputation was made on quality rather than rules. The vineyards lie on poor, stony limestone soils among the garrigue scrub, with a hot, dry Mediterranean climate and the drying Mistral wind that keeps disease low and concentrates the fruit. This 2013 was aged twenty-four months in barrel, long enough to resolve the firm tannin of Cabernet and integrate the wood through slow oxygen exchange. The colour is deep crimson moving to garnet with bottle age. The nose is complex and savoury, with cherry, plum, black pepper, dried Provencal herbs and a note of olive and leather. The palate is structured and elegant, with firm but maturing tannin, dark fruit and an earthy, herbal finish. At 13 percent it is balanced rather than heavy. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanted, with roast lamb, beef or game.