Domaine de Pallus Cabernet Franc 2023

Domaine de Pallus sits in Chinon, in the central Loire Valley, where Bertrand Sourdais farms Cabernet Franc biodynamically. He is a fifth-generation Chinon winemaker who also trained in Bordeaux, at Château Léoville Las Cases and Mouton Rothschild, and that classical grounding shows in the wine. Chinon's vineyards run across gravel, sand and limestone-clay terraces above the Vienne, soils that give Cabernet Franc its lift and savoury grip; the cooler Loire climate keeps acidity high and ripens the grape to a red-fruited, herbal register rather than a jammy one. The 2023 spent six months in barrel, enough oak contact to round the tannins and add a light spice frame without masking the fruit. Biodynamic farming and careful canopy work help the grape avoid its green, pyrazine-heavy side and settle into red currant, cherry and tobacco. The colour is medium ruby. The nose leads with red currant and cherry over earth, crushed pepper and a leafy, graphite note typical of the appellation. The palate is medium bodied with bright acidity and fine, slightly grainy tannin, closing dry and savoury. Serve at 16C, decanting young bottles briefly. Good with roast lamb, duck or a mushroom tart.