Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Étoile Chardonnay 2018

Domaine de Montbourgeau is a fourth-generation estate in L'Étoile, a small appellation in the southern Jura named for the starfish fossils in its soils. The vineyards sit on marl and limestone laced with those fossil deposits, which lend the wines their tension and salinity. This Chardonnay is farmed organically and aged for three years under a veil of flor, the same film of yeast that shapes the region's vin jaune. Rather than topping up the barrels, the winemaker allows this natural yeast layer to form on the wine's surface, which protects it from full oxidation while slowly converting alcohol into aldehydes. The result is the trademark nutty, savoury character of the Jura. The colour is deep gold. The nose leads with almond, walnut and dried apricot over green apple and a note of curry spice typical of flor ageing. The palate is dry and textured, with umami depth, a firm line of acidity and a saline, long finish. Serve at 12 to 13 degrees in a standard white glass.