Domaine de la Chappe André 2023

Domaine de la Chappe sits in Tonnerre, the cool northern reach of Burgundy where Vincent Thomas took over the family vineyards in 2003 and set about proving that fine reds could come from a climate once considered too marginal for them. The limestone and marl soils here are the same Kimmeridgian seam that runs beneath nearby Chablis, lending tension and a saline, mineral edge, while the cool continental site holds natural acidity and keeps the fruit fresh rather than ripe and heavy. Vincent farms organically and works with native yeasts, so this is a true natural wine, fermented without additions and given six months in barrel to soften and settle without picking up obvious oak. The result is a pale to medium ruby Pinot Noir with a perfumed nose of fresh strawberry, cherry and a touch of rose, the palate light and bright with red currant, gentle earth and a savoury, herbal note of thyme over fine, low tannin. The cool site shows in the crisp acidity and clean finish. Serve lightly chilled at 14 to 15 degrees in a Burgundy glass. It pairs well with roast chicken, duck and earthy mushroom dishes.