Derain Mercurey La Plante Chassey 2023

Derain Mercurey La Plante Chassey is a natural red from Burgundy, made principally from Pinot Noir under the Dominique Derain label. Derain farmed his small plots biodynamically and was known for powerful, expressive wines fermented largely as whole bunches without destemming; in 2016 he passed the domaine to Julien Altaber and Carole Schwab, who continue in the same hands-off style. Mercurey sits in the Côte Chalonnaise, on limestone and marl soils that give Pinot Noir its red-fruited freshness and savoury depth. Whole-bunch fermentation, where intact clusters and their stems go into the vat, adds aromatic lift, fine spice and a slightly firmer tannic frame, while natural winemaking with native yeasts and minimal sulphur keeps the wine transparent to its site. At twelve per cent alcohol this is a wine of finesse rather than weight. It pours a bright, medium ruby, with a nose of red cherry, raspberry, crushed herbs, black pepper and forest floor. The palate is fresh and medium-bodied, with crunchy red fruit, earthy savour and fine grainy tannin running to a clean finish. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees in a large glass. It is a natural match for roast duck, guinea fowl and mushroom dishes.