Dehesa Gago 2024

Telmo Rodríguez, a producer committed to native varieties from their original regions, makes Dehesa Gago in D.O. Toro from Tinta de Toro, the local strain of Tempranillo. The grapes come from bush-trained vines on sandy soils with gravel terraces. Sandy soils drain freely and, importantly for Toro, were never affected by phylloxera, allowing very old ungrafted vines to survive, while the gravel and a hot continental climate give full ripeness and deep colour. Fermentation runs with native yeasts in cement and stainless steel, and the wine then rests around four months in cement vats rather than oak. Cement allows a slow, gentle micro-oxygenation that softens the tannins while keeping the wine fresh and free of oak flavour, so the pure Tinta de Toro fruit leads. It pours a vibrant violet red. The nose shows intense blackberry and blueberry, with liquorice, black pepper and a wild herbal edge of thyme and sage. The palate is full and dark fruited at 14.5% alcohol, with the firm but ripe tannins characteristic of Toro and a fresh, savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees. It suits grilled meat and hearty stews.