D’Arenberg Custodian Grenache 2018

D'Arenberg farms in McLaren Vale, South Australia, organically and biodynamically, and its Custodian Grenache honours the estate's long defence of old Grenache vines during a period when Australian growers were paid to remove them. McLaren Vale has a warm maritime climate with cooling afternoon sea breezes, and its varied soils of sand, ironstone and limestone suit late-ripening Grenache. Old bush vines give low yields of concentrated fruit and are the source of the wine's depth. Grenache ripens to high sugar, which explains the 14.5 percent alcohol and the ripe, generous fruit. The wine is aged in wood, where gradual oxygen exchange softens tannin and adds savoury spice, while malolactic fermentation rounds the palate. The colour is deep purple-red. The nose is fruit driven, with red berries, plum and cherry lifted by pepper, dried herbs and violet. The palate is full and powerful yet elegant, with ripe tannin and a warm liquorice and leather finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted for younger vintages. It works with roast lamb, braised beef and duck.