Damijan Podversic Kaplja Bianco 2021

Damijan Podversic learned under Josko Gravner and now farms the south-facing wooded slopes of Mount Calvary above Gorizia, in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, on the marl and sandstone ponca soils that drain freely and ripen the grapes fully on these warm slopes. Kaplja is a blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia and Tocai Friulano made under the producer's mantra of balance, with long skin contact and extended barrel ageing. The maceration ferments the white grapes on their skins for a sustained period, extracting tannin, colour and phenolic compounds that give the wine its deep amber colour and substantial grip. It then ages thirty-six months in foudres, large old oak casks whose very slow oxygen exchange softens the tannin and builds a layered, oxidative complexity. At 14.5 percent alcohol the wine is full and powerful. The colour is deep amber. The nose shows dried apricot, orange marmalade, dried fig, honey and dried herbs, with a walnut and earthy depth. The palate is dry, broad and firmly tannic, the finish long and savoury. Serve at 14 to 16 degrees in a wide glass, decanting an hour ahead.