Dalwhinnie The Distillers Edition 17 Years Old 1990

This official Dalwhinnie, a 17 year old, from 1990, cask D. SO. 312, at 43%. Dalwhinnie is a Highland single malt from the cold, high ground between the Grampian and Monadhliath ranges. For decades its staff doubled as Met Office weather observers, logging some of the coldest readings in Britain.

It was run through the pear shaped stills on soft snowmelt water, giving the soft, honeyed Highland spirit. An Oloroso finish gave fig and dried fruit above the heather honey. At oxidative maturity vanillin and lactones are fully expressed, the heather honey deepening over a waxy weight. The light, floral make takes cask flavour gently while keeping its honey. Cook and Bernheimer, then America's largest distillers, bought it at auction in 1905. The distillery briefly swapped its worm tubs for modern condensers in the 1980s, then returned to the worms when the spirit changed. It was one of the six original Classic Malts of Scotland, chosen to represent the Highlands.

At 43% it is smooth and honeyed. Honey, pear and a waxy weight, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. Pear, honey and a creamy malt fill the middle. It finishes long, soft and warming. This is a Classic Malt of real charm.