Dalwhinnie Diageo Special Releases 2015 25 Years Old 1989

This official Dalwhinnie, a 25 year old, from 1989, at 48.8%, 5916 bottles in all. Dalwhinnie is a Highland single malt made at the highest distillery in Scotland, high in the central hills. For decades its staff doubled as Met Office weather observers, logging some of the coldest readings in Britain.

It was distilled from unpeated malt in pear shaped copper stills, for a clean, floral spirit with a waxy core. First fill bourbon gave a fuller vanilla and a touch of coconut from the lactones. At this evaporative stage ellagitannins lend a drying structure while oxidation builds a richer, honeyed fruit. Refill oak lets the soft heather honey character lead the way. It runs pear shaped copper stills whose vapour is cooled in traditional worm tubs. The cold, high air of the central hills gives a slow, even maturation. Cold warehouses on the high ground slow the spirit's loss to the angels' share.

At its natural 48.8% it is concentrated. A gentle, floral sweetness, with a soft vanilla from the oak. A baked apple and a gentle spice lift it. The finish runs long, gentle and warming. This is the Highland malt at the heart of the Classic Malts.