Dallas Dhu 34 Years Old 1980 Licensed Bottling (G&M)

From the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, a 34 year old Dallas Dhu, distilled in 1980, bottled at 43%. Dallas Dhu is a closed Speyside distillery, kept intact as a working museum by Historic Environment Scotland. Water came from the Altyre Burn, in the hollow south of Forres where the distillery sits.

Made in copper pot stills before the distillery closed, for a medium bodied spirit that rewards long ageing. Maturation came in ex-Bourbon wood, the oak quiet behind the malty spirit. At a great, fragile age oxidation rules, sotolon lending maple and old oak as beeswax and a warm spice linger. Years in oak round the spirit, the fruit deepening to dried fruit, honey and toffee. It was designed by Charles Doig, the great distillery architect, with his pagoda roofed kiln. Its malty, fruity spirit went almost entirely into blends, never sold as an official single malt in its day. Closed in 1983, it was preserved whole rather than demolished, its profile fixed for good.

At an approachable 43% it is soft and balanced. A soft, oily fruitiness, with a soft vanilla from the oak. Soft orchard fruit and a honeyed malt sit behind the cask. The finish is deep, malty and honeyed. This is a single malt from a silent Speyside distillery, now a museum.