Dalamára Paliokalias 2020

Dalamára is a small family estate in Naoussa, northern Greece, farming organically at the foot of Mount Vermion since 1840. Paliokalias comes from old Xinomavro vines on a distinct hillside site, a grape often likened to Nebbiolo for its pale colour, high acidity and firm tannin. The vineyards sit on poor slopes with good altitude and a continental climate tempered by mountain air, so ripening is slow and the wine keeps its tension. Xinomavro is naturally structured, and twelve months in barrel soften the grip through gradual oxygen exchange while adding only a light spice frame. The colour is a deceptively pale garnet that belies the wine's power. The nose is savoury and complex, with dark cherry, dried herbs, sun-dried tomato, rose and a leathery, earthy depth. The palate is medium bodied but firmly tannic, with bright acidity, red fruit and a long savoury finish. This is a wine built for the table and for the cellar. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees, decanted an hour ahead, in a large glass. It suits roast lamb, braised beef and tomato-rich dishes.