Cune Blanco Reserva 2020

CVNE has made barrel-aged white Rioja from its century-old cellars in Haro since the nineteenth century, and this Reserva is built in that traditional style from Viura, the region's dominant white grape. The wine is fermented and then matured for 18 months in French oak barrels, followed by a further six months in bottle before release. The long time in wood allows a slow, controlled exchange of oxygen through the barrel, which builds texture and a nutty, oxidative complexity, while ageing on the lees adds body and a fine, savoury weight to what is naturally a fairly neutral grape. Rioja Alta sits at altitude, and the cool nights preserve enough acidity to carry the oak and the extended ageing. It pours deep gold, with a nose of vanilla, toasted bread and hazelnut over ripe pear and dried herbs. The palate is broad and layered, the barrel-derived spice woven into orchard fruit and a light almond bitterness, closing long and dry with a clear savoury edge. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a full white glass, and give it a little air. It suits roast chicken, hard cheeses and richer fish dishes.