Cullen Wilyabrup Cabernet – Merlot 2022

Margaret River earned its reputation after the agronomist Dr John Gladstones showed in the 1960s that its maritime climate and gravel soils resembled the great Bordeaux estates, and Cullen became one of the names that proved him right. This Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comes from the Wilyabrup subregion, where free-draining gravel over clay forces the roots deep and the moderating influence of two oceans gives a long, even ripening season that builds structure without excess heat. The estate is farmed organically. The wine is aged in oak barrels, where slow oxygen ingress through the wood polymerises the firm Cabernet tannin into a finer, more supple grain and adds cedar and sweet spice, while the Merlot fills the mid-palate with plush plum fruit. Expect a deep ruby red with blackcurrant, dark plum and a savoury note of tobacco and cedar, lifted by the cool-grown eucalyptus lift typical of the region. The palate is full and structured, with firm but ripe tannin and a long, faintly cocoa-edged finish. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanted. It suits roast beef, lamb and hard cheese.