Craigellachie Exceptional Cask Series 15 Years Old 2007

A 15 year old Craigellachie, a distillery bottling, from 2007, cask 895, at 57%, 372 bottles in all. Craigellachie was founded in 1891 by a consortium led by Peter Mackie of White Horse fame. Its malt has long been the muscular heart of the White Horse blend.

The spirit was distilled in copper stills with worm tub condensers on Blue Hill spring water, for an oily, robust make that turns tropical with age. A sherry butt held it, the wood lending raisin and walnut to the robust spirit. At oxidative maturity aldehydes and esters lend tropical fruit while ellagitannins add a drying, savoury grip. Worm tubs give little copper contact, so the new spirit is heavy and full, mellowing with time. The heavy, oily make is prized by blenders for the backbone it gives White Horse. Bacardi's John Dewar and Sons bought it in 1998, alongside Aberfeldy, Aultmore and Royal Brackla.

At 57%, undiluted, it is deep and fruity. Mango, wax and a meaty depth, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. It is robust and waxy, the muscular spirit shining through. It finishes robust, waxy and warm. This is one of Speyside's most robust single malts.