Craigellachie 21 Years Old 2002 Cask #15602203 (Connoisseurs Choice)

This Craigellachie was bottled by the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, a 21 year old, distilled in 2002, from cask 15602203, bottled at 57.9%, one of 219 bottles. Craigellachie was built in 1891 and is one of the few distilleries still using worm tubs. Bacardi's John Dewar and Sons bought it in 1998, alongside Aberfeldy, Aultmore and Royal Brackla.

It was run through the distillery's stills and old fashioned worm tubs, giving the heavy, oily spirit at its heart. A refill bourbon hogshead held it, keeping the meaty character to the fore. Through oxidative maturity esters concentrate, the worm tub weight turning to mango and a waxy depth. The slow loss of the angel's share concentrates the oily, tropical core over the years. Most Craigellachie goes quietly into blends, a robust filler kept in part as single malt. Most of its make still goes to blending, a robust filler prized for its weight.

At cask strength 57.9% it is full bodied. Mango, wax and a meaty depth, with a soft vanilla from the oak. Pineapple, malt and a savoury wax fill the middle. The finish runs meaty, waxy and warm. This is the muscular, meaty Speyside malt of Craigellachie.