Cosme Palacio vino de Laguardia 2020

Cosme Palacio comes from Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia, in the Rioja Alavesa, a winery long associated with the move toward modern Rioja. The fruit is Tempranillo from old vines of over 40 years, grown on the cool calcareous clay soils that sit at the foot of the Sierra de Cantabria. Altitude and the limestone subsoil hold acidity and lend the wine its savoury line, while the age of the vines keeps yields low and concentration high. After fermentation the wine spends 12 months in French oak as a Crianza, where slow oxygen exchange through the staves softens the tannins and the lees contact rounds the texture, adding vanilla and clove to the red fruit. The colour is deep cherry red. The nose carries red berries, cherry and a leathery, tobacco-edged savouriness, with sweet oak spice behind. On the palate it is medium to full bodied, with fine grippy tannins, fresh acidity and an earthy, mineral finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, ideally decanted for half an hour. It suits roast lamb, grilled beef and aged Manchego.