Contino Graciano 2020

Contino is a Rioja estate near Laguardia, working since 1973 from grounds that date to the sixteenth century and credited with bringing the Bordeaux single-estate model to the region. This wine is made entirely from Graciano, a low-yielding native variety usually kept for blending and rarely bottled on its own. The 62 hectares of sandy-calcareous and clay-calcareous soils with boulders sit under an Atlantic-Mediterranean climate, where cooler Atlantic influence keeps the acidity and aromatic lift that Graciano is prized for. The grape carries naturally high acidity, deep colour and firm tannin, and ageing for thirteen months in oak rounds those tannins while letting slow oxygen exchange add structure and a savoury edge. The colour is dense and purple-tinged. The nose leads with dark plum, black cherry and black pepper over liquorice and leather, with an earthy undertone tied to the calcareous soils. The palate is structured and savoury, the acidity bright, the tannins fine-grained and the finish long and peppery. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees and decant an hour ahead. It suits roast lamb, grilled beef and aged hard cheese.