Comabruna 2018

Comabruna is a single-variety Carignan from Espelt in the D.O. Empordà, in the far north-east of Catalonia. The fruit comes from one vineyard of vines planted in 1907, set on slate slopes in the Rabós area of the Alt Empordà. Slate retains daytime heat and drains hard, forcing the old vines to root deep and crop very low, around 2,500 kilos per hectare, which concentrates flavour in small berries. Summer sun ripens the fruit while the dry north wind, the Tramontana, preserves acidity and keeps the grapes healthy. The harvest is by hand into 15-kilo boxes with selection in the vineyard. The wine spends fourteen months in French oak, where slow oxygen exchange softens the firm Carignan tannins and adds spice without masking the fruit. It is deep and concentrated, with plum and dark berry fruit, rosemary and dried herbs, liquorice and a stony, mineral undertow from the slate. The palate is intense and structured, with grippy tannins and a long savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanting an hour ahead. Good with roast lamb or grilled red meat.