Colombera & Garella Bramaterra Cascina Cottignano 2021

Bramaterra is one of the small, revived appellations of Alto Piemonte, and this Cascina Cottignano bottling from Colombera & Garella is led by Nebbiolo with the local grapes Croatina and Vespolina, which add colour, fleshy fruit and a peppery spice. The soils are the key here, acidic and rich in volcanic porphyry and marine sand, giving wines that are more aromatic and finely structured than the calcareous reds further south, with a distinct mineral edge. The cool foothill climate and long ripening season preserve the high acidity and firm tannin typical of northern Nebbiolo. The wine is aged thirty-six months in separate containers before assembly, an extended maturation that uses slow oxygen exchange to soften and integrate the tannins while building tertiary, savoury complexity. Farming is natural and sustainable. It pours a pale garnet. The nose is delicate and complex, with dried rose, red cherry, redcurrant, tobacco and a peppery, earthy lift; the palate is medium-bodied and tightly structured, with bright acidity, fine chalky tannins and a long, savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted, with roast and braised meats or game.