Christian Tschida Felsen I 2023

Christian Tschida farms in Burgenland, in the Weinland region of eastern Austria, and works in a deliberately fresh, lower-alcohol style that steps away from heavily extracted, oak-driven reds. Felsen I is made from Blaufränkisch, a late-ripening Central European grape prized for its acidity, pepper and savoury character. The vineyards sit on stony soils near the Neusiedlersee, whose moderating lake effect lengthens the ripening season and keeps the wine fresh and lifted at 12.5 percent alcohol. The farming is natural and organic, and the wine ages 24 months in barrel, where slow oxygen exchange softens the firm Blaufränkisch tannins while the older wood keeps oak flavour to a minimum, leaving the fruit and minerality in the foreground. The colour is a bright translucent red. The nose shows cherry and red berries with black pepper, dried herbs, leather and a clear stony, earthy note. The palate is medium-bodied and tense, with bright acidity, fine grippy tannins and a long, savoury, peppery finish. This is a fresh, food-driven natural red. Serve lightly cool at 15 to 16 degrees, with a brief decant. It suits roast poultry, pork and mushrooms.