Château d’Yquem 2021

Château d'Yquem sits between Sauternes and Farges in Bordeaux, on a 113 hectare estate of varied gravel and clay over limestone that gives natural drainage and a patchwork of microclimates. The vineyard's position above the Ciron and Garonne rivers brings autumn morning mists followed by warm afternoons, the conditions that encourage Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, to settle on the ripe Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The fungus dehydrates the berries and concentrates their sugars, acids and glycerol while adding the saffron and dried apricot character typical of botrytis. Pickers pass through the rows repeatedly, taking only shrivelled bunches, so yields are tiny. After a slow ferment the wine spends time in French oak barrels, where measured oxygen exchange builds texture and folds vanilla and spice into the fruit. The colour is deep gold. The nose carries apricot, honey, orange marmalade and white peach, with beeswax and ginger behind. The palate is rich and viscous but held together by firm acidity that keeps the long finish fresh rather than cloying. Serve well chilled at around 8 to 10 degrees in a tulip glass.