Château Dereszla Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2021

Chateau Dereszla is a long-established winery in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region of Hungary, founded in the eighteenth century in one of the world's most famous sweet-wine areas. Aszu 5 Puttonyos is made from Furmint with Harslevelu and Zeta, grown on the volcanic soils that mark the appellation. Autumn humidity from the river valleys encourages Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that shrivels the grapes and concentrates sugar, acid and flavour. These botrytised aszu berries are harvested by hand and carefully sorted, then added to a base wine, the 5 puttonyos measure denoting a high level of sweetness. Fermentation is slow and difficult because the concentrated sugar stresses the yeast, and it is arrested with a high level of residual sugar before the wine is aged in oak. That barrel maturation allows gentle oxidation that builds dried-fruit and marmalade complexity while Furmint's acidity holds the wine in balance. The colour is deep gold. The nose shows apricot, dried apricot, honey, orange marmalade and beeswax. The palate is rich and sweet but lifted by sharp, citric acidity, giving length and freshness rather than heaviness. Serve chilled, around 10 degrees. It suits apricot tart, fruit cake and Roquefort.