César Fernández Díaz Espantaburros 2021

Espantaburros takes its name from a thicket-forming sage that grazing animals avoid, a fitting label for a wine rooted in the wild herbs of the Castilian plateau. César Fernández Díaz, a young oenologist trained in Ribera del Duero, makes it as a biodynamic, natural wine from a field blend of Bobal, Garnacha Tinta and Tempranillo grown on the high continental plains of Castilla y Leon. The altitude here brings a wide swing between warm days and cold nights, and that diurnal range is what keeps the wine fresh and aromatic at a moderate alcohol despite the deep, ripe colour. Farming is biodynamic and the wine is made with minimal intervention and native yeasts. Ageing across amphora and barrel is the key: the clay amphora lets the wine breathe gently while preserving pure fruit and a chalky texture, and the barrel adds a little structure and savoury depth, neither dominating. The wine pours a dark, mature ruby and leads with black olive, red berries and dark plum over dried herbs, sage, pepper and a stony, earthy core. The palate is savoury and fresh rather than heavy, with fine tannin and a long, herbal finish. Serve at 16 degrees in a large glass. It suits lamb and grilled meats.