Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 2019

Ceretto is one of Barolo's leading estates, run by the family since brothers Bruno and Marcello began buying prime cru sites in 1960. Bricco Rocche comes from a single vineyard on the Bricco Rocche hill at Castiglione Falletto, planted to Nebbiolo, the late-ripening grape behind every Barolo. The calcareous marl soils of the Langhe hills give the wine its perfume and fine structure, while the cool Piedmont autumn and a long hang time develop Nebbiolo's high acidity and powerful tannin. The 2019 is aged in oak, where extended, gentle oxygen exchange slowly resolves the tannins and builds complexity without masking the variety's clarity. It is a pale garnet that lightens at the rim, classic for Nebbiolo, with red cherry and raspberry, dried rose, liquorice, tar and a forest-floor earthiness. The palate is elegant and tightly structured, with bright acidity, firm grippy tannin and a long, savoury finish that will reward cellaring. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanted well ahead in a large glass. It calls for rich, earthy dishes.