Carmes de Rieussec 2018

Carmes de Rieussec is the second sweet wine of Château Rieussec, a Sauternes Premier Cru Classé owned since 1984 by Domaines Barons de Rothschild. The estate sits where the river Ciron meets the Garonne, and the cool autumn mists rising off the Ciron settle over the vineyards. Those damp mornings followed by warm afternoons encourage Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that pierces the skins of the Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, draws out water and concentrates the sugars, acids and aromatic compounds left behind. Botrytis also creates glycerol and the compound that gives Sauternes its characteristic apricot and saffron register. The shrivelled berries are picked across several passes through the rows, then fermented in oak barrels, where ageing on the lees and slow oxygen exchange add a marzipan and vanilla edge and round the texture. The colour is deep gold. The nose carries apricot, candied citrus peel and honey, with palate weight balanced by the firm acidity that keeps the sweetness fresh rather than cloying. The finish is long and marmalade tinged. Serve at 8 to 10C in a small white wine glass. It works with Roquefort, foie gras or a fruit tart.