Cardhu Managers’ Choice 12 Years Old 1997

A 12 year old Cardhu, a distillery bottling, from 1997, cask 3362, at 57.3%, 252 bottles in all. Cardhu, on Mannoch Hill in Speyside, was famously built up by the women of the Cumming family. Its malt has been the heart of the Johnnie Walker blends ever since.

Distilled in pear shaped stills for a soft, sweet spirit, to build a gentle, fruity character. A refill bourbon hogshead held it, keeping the soft character to the fore. By the integrating teens congeners fade and esters build, the soft, fruity spirit growing rounder. Maturation in the gentle Speyside climate keeps the spirit smooth and honeyed. It was founded in 1824 by John Cumming, whose wife Helen ran it and flew a flag to warn of the excisemen. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and coconut over the fruit. The clean spirit shows the cask clearly, vanilla and honey to the fore. A 2003 plan to sell a vatted malt under the Cardhu name caused an industry outcry, and was reversed.

At 57.3%, undiluted, it is deep and fruity. Apple, pear and a soft vanilla, with a soft vanilla from the oak. A baked apple and a gentle spice lift it. The finish runs gentle, fruity and easy. This is the women built malt of Speyside.