Caol Ila 35 Years Old 1980 The Admiral’s Beacon (Wemyss)

The bottler Wemyss Malts released this Caol Ila, a 35 year old, distilled in 1980, bottled at 46%, one of 285 bottles. Caol Ila is the most heavily bottled of all the Islay malts. Its peated character is built on malt smoked to a medium level of phenols.

Run through tall copper stills that keep the smoke light, giving a bright, citrus driven peat. A bourbon barrel held it, the oak lending vanilla and a little cream. At an ethereal, fragile age the spirit turns delicate, sotolon lending a maple and old oak depth as beeswax and a ghost of smoke linger. Cool, damp warehousing slows the loss of the angel's share over the years. The peat here is medium rather than heavy, so fruit and smoke share the glass. Olive oil and lemon sit at the heart of the Caol Ila character. From a small Victorian works it grew into one of Scotland's biggest malt distilleries.

At an approachable 46% it is balanced. Wood smoke, lemon zest and brine, with a light vanilla and a touch of coconut. Lemon, olive oil and a soft ash run through the middle. It finishes smoky, oily and bright. This is a clean coastal malt with a lemony peat.