Caol Ila 12 Years Old WM Barrel Selection (Wilson & Morgan)

A 12 year old Caol Ila, from the Italian bottler Wilson and Morgan, bottled at 46%. Caol Ila is among the most widely traded of Islay's single malts. Tall stills and a clean cut give the spirit its oily, lemony lightness.

This was made from medium phenol malt on soft Loch nam Ban water, for a smoky spirit with a citrus lift. A refill hogshead held it quietly, the spirit left to lead. Integration sees eugenol (clove) and vanillin (vanilla) fold into the spirit, the medicinal smoke gentler now. Maturation by the sea gives the malt its mineral, sea spray character. Phenols from the peat smoke carry the medicinal, lemony edge through the years. Malt comes from the Port Ellen maltings on the south of the island. The six tall stills sit behind picture windows looking out to Jura. The peat here is medium rather than heavy, so fruit and smoke share the glass.

At 46% it is soft, oily and bright. Peat, smoked fish and a citrus oil, with a soft vanilla from the oak. It is clean and coastal, the peat and lemon to the fore. The smoke fades slow over citrus and a mineral tang. This is a clean Islay smoke from the island's largest distillery.