Caol Ila 12 Years Old 2010 Cask #311696 (BB&R)

From the London wine merchant Berry Bros and Rudd, a 12 year old Caol Ila, distilled in 2010, from cask 311696, bottled at 52.9%, one of 299 bottles. Caol Ila was founded in 1846 by Hector Henderson. Water falls to the distillery from Loch nam Ban in the hills above.

Here the spirit was made from medium peated malt for a clean, smoky spirit, for the clean island smoke prized by blenders. A sherry cask wrapped the spirit in dried fruit and a nutty depth. Across the integration years the smoke loses its edge as esters and vanillin weave into a smoother, citrussy whole. Smoked citrus and a saline minerality are the hallmarks of the make. The malt is medium peated, giving a cleaner smoke than the south shore Islays. The clean spirit shows the cask clearly, which is why it suits so many wood types. Long ageing turns the young, sharp peat into a soft, coastal smoke.

At its natural 52.9% it is concentrated. A smoky, briny coastal character, with grape, honey and a floral lift from the cask. Beneath the smoke run lemon, brine and a peppery oil. Lemon, soft ash and sea salt see it out. This is one of the most versatile of the Islay malts.