Calalta Undercover 2022

Undercover is Calalta's pure Merlot, an honest, unshowy red from this small family estate run by Nicola Brunetti and Giulia in the foothills at the foot of Monte Grappa in the Veneto. The vines are farmed organically with minimal intervention on the clay and limestone soils of these northern Italian hills, where the clay gives the wine its juicy flesh and rounded body and the limestone keeps it fresh, while cool nights off the mountains preserve the acidity that stops Merlot turning soft and heavy. The name points to a wine that holds back at first and reveals its depth slowly. It is made in stainless steel, with nine months on the inert tank keeping the fruit clean, primary and bright rather than layered with oak, so the grape and the site come through clearly. The wine pours a medium to deep ruby and shows ripe plum, red berries and cherry over a savoury, earthy core with black pepper and a touch of thyme. The palate is juicy and supple, medium-bodied with soft, fine tannin, good freshness and a clean finish. Serve at 16 degrees in a medium to large glass. It is a versatile red for grilled meats and everyday dishes.