Bristol Caroni Caroni Distillery 1998

This Bristol Classic Rum bottling is a 23-year-old Caroni from 1998, matured in the cooler European climate rather than at origin, which keeps the angel's share low and the maturation gentle, so a continental Caroni of this age reads differently from a tropically aged one. Bristol is a long-established closed-distillery specialist, and Caroni, shut since 2003, is firmly in its wheelhouse.

The molasses spirit shows the heavy Trinidad signature, petrol, rubber, leather and tobacco on the nose, then vanilla, rubber and spice on the palate, with an alcoholic, woody, rubber-edged finish. It is dry, smoky and faintly dirty rather than sweet, a solid representation of the HTR style at a manageable 54.6%. One for drinkers who already enjoy Caroni or dry, smoky Trinidad rum and know not to expect a soft, sugary pour.