Bricco Ernesto Bianco 2023

Bricco Ernesto is the project of Renato Vezza in the Roero hills of Piedmont, built on a hilltop plot his grandfather Ernesto kept rather than sell. The wine is made from Arneis, the native white grape of the Roero, farmed organically and made naturally. This is an orange wine, fermented and aged in wood with skin contact, so that the grape skins contribute colour and tannin while the time in barrel allows slow oxygen exchange through the wood that adds savoury complexity and softens the structure. The sandy soils of the Roero give Arneis its perfume and finesse, while the wood ageing and skin maceration build the texture and grip that place this on the structured side of the style. The wine is deep golden, with aromas of fresh peach and apricot lifted by white flowers and a subtle honeyed note, over almond and beeswax. The palate is dry and textured, with firm grip from the skins, a savoury depth from the wood and a long finish. Serve at 12 to 14 degrees, ideally decanted, in a broad glass. It suits roast pork, herbed chicken and aged hard cheeses, and stands up to earthy mushroom dishes.