Bott Condrieu Lieu-Dit L’Aleau 2023

Graeme and Julie Bott are growers in the Northern Rhône, in France, and L'Aleau is the granite terrace where their domaine began, a plot they cleared and whose dry-stone walls they rebuilt themselves. Bottled under the Collines Rhodaniennes designation but grown from Viognier in Condrieu country, this is Viognier in its natural home. The decomposed granite soil drains hard and stresses the vine, concentrating the fruit, while the steep, sun-facing terrace ripens the grape fully, which Viognier needs to develop its heady apricot and floral character. The wine ages nine months in barrel. Time in wood on the lees builds a creamy texture and a subtle honeyed, nutty depth that suits the grape's weight, while the barrel work is judged to frame the aromatics rather than cover them. The colour is bright gold. The nose is powerfully floral, with apricot, white peach and honeysuckle over rose and a touch of honey. The palate is full and creamy, the ripe stone fruit given a rounded, slightly oily texture that is characteristic of good Viognier, closing on a warm, gently spiced finish. Serve at 11 to 13C in a larger glass.