Bodegas Frontonio Elástico 2023

Bodegas Frontonio sits in Aragón in north-east Spain, the project of Fernando Mora, a Master of Wine who works outside the region's formal appellation system. This white is a field blend of Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Palomino, grown on the poor, stony soils of the higher Zaragoza country where cool nights slow ripening and hold the grapes' natural acidity. Fermentation and ageing take place in concrete rather than oak, so no wood flavour intrudes; the wine spends twelve months on its lees in tank, and the slow breakdown of those spent yeast cells releases mannoproteins that build texture and a subtle savoury depth while keeping the fruit clean. The concrete's neutral, breathable walls allow a gentle micro-oxygenation without adding vanilla or spice. The result is pale straw in the glass, with a nose of lemon, green apple and white peach over almond and white flowers. The palate is dry and textured, the lees weight balanced by firm acidity and a saline, stony finish that reflects the arid terroir. Serve at 9 to 11 degrees. It suits grilled white fish, shellfish and fresh goat cheese.