Bodega Clandestina Blanc Fugitiu 2023

Bodega Clandestina is the project of Ferran Lacruz in Sant Martí Sarroca, in the Alt Penedès in Catalonia, where he farms eight hectares organically to make clean, natural wines. Blanc Fugitiu is made from Xarel·lo, the firm-skinned local white that carries Penedès limestone soils well, here from old vines around fifty years of age whose deep roots give concentration and balance at a modest 11 percent alcohol. The wine sees skin contact, a fermentation on the grape skins that pulls light tannin, colour and aromatic phenolics from the fruit, giving structure and a faint amber tone without heavy extraction. This is a fresher, lighter style of orange wine rather than a deeply oxidative one, with the skin grip kept in check to leave the fruit clear. The colour is pale gold. The nose shows green apple, lemon, pear and white flowers, with an almond and chalky edge. The palate is dry and crisp, the gentle tannin adding grip to a saline, mineral finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a white-wine glass. It suits white fish, shellfish, green salads and fresh goat cheese.