Bodega Cerrón Matas Altas 2024

Bodega Cerrón is a new-generation Jumilla project in northern Murcia that has helped move the appellation from bulk wine to serious Mediterranean reds. Matas Altas is built on pre-phylloxera Monastrell vines grown on the region's poor, free-draining limestone soils under a hot, dry Levante climate, where ungrafted old vines yield small concentrated berries. The winery works biodynamically and organically, with no chemical intervention in the vineyard. After fermentation the wine spends eleven months in oak barrels, which softens Monastrell's naturally firm tannins through slow oxygen exchange and adds a light spine of cedar and vanilla without masking the fruit. The colour is deep ruby. The nose is perfumed and floral, leading with wild red berries, dark plum and the dried Mediterranean herbs that mark warm-climate Monastrell. The palate is full and savoury, with ripe black fruit, cracked pepper, liquorice and an earthy, stony undertone, closing long on fine grippy tannins. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted half an hour ahead. It suits grilled lamb, roast beef and slow-cooked dishes of root vegetables, and stands up to aged Manchego.