Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco 2020

Bibi Graetz makes this white version of his Testamatta from Inzolia, the Tuscan white grape also known as Ansonica, after years of research into how to work with it. The wine is aged for twelve months in oak barrels and kept on its lees, a long elevation that builds a creamy texture through the mannoproteins released as the yeast cells break down, while the barrel allows slow oxygen exchange and adds vanilla, spice and a nutty character. Inzolia is a Mediterranean grape suited to the warm Tuscan climate, and here it keeps a firm mineral core that carries the weight of the oak and lees work. The long time on lees and in wood is what gives the wine its structure and depth, so it drinks as a serious, textured white rather than a simple fresh one. It pours deep gold. The nose is led by oak from the ageing, with dried pear, apple, almond and beeswax behind it. The palate is creamy and full, orchard fruit and honey held by a mineral line, finishing long and savoury. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a large glass.